Adventures in Coorg

 

Imagine you are driving through the South Indian jungle at night.  Darkness has fallen sooner than you planned  in the depth of Nagarhole National Park. You were unable to resist stopping, again and again to view and

photograph the profusion of wildlife that seemed eager to pose right by the side of the road.  Looming in the beam of your headlights there is no confusing the sudden appearance of a wild elephant.  Nothing else could blot out the road, your only way home tonight.  As your car slows to stop, an intake of breath....there are massive forms looming on both sides of the road as well as in front.  You have driven right into the midst of a herd!  This was our situation last night, the culmination of a full and exciting day as only India can deliver.

The beauty of it all was that we awoke that morning innocent of the adventures before us.  February 12th this year, Sivaratri, is a special festival day throughout India.  We had originally had plans for a small trip to a neighboring state by train, but as often happens around here, our plans fell apart two days before.  Aeryk, not to be daunted, created a new itinerary for us to visit a special Siva temple in a nearby town, and we invited our friend Phillip to join us as we shared a post practice coconut at 6 am. Plan B turned into Plan C by 9 o'clock when my lovely landlady Shobha knocked on my door to announce she was taking us to her homeland, Coorg in her private car. 

The five of us spent our morning riding in the stately old Ambassador the bumpy roads to the coffee country, high up in the hills at the Karnataka-Kerala border, India's deep south.  Shobha and her driver, also a native Coorgi, wanted to take us on a "shortcut" through the wildlife preserve on our way to Irpu falls.  The falls we were told were special, sacred, and healing if we wanted to get in them.  In the near hundred degree weather, the idea sounded better and better as we traveled.  Nagarhole was amazingly beautiful - sunlit teak and bamboo forest riddled with animals.  Dhole (jungle dogs), a plethora of spotted deer, langurs, and massive gwar (jungle bison), were the first to greet us.  Shobha assured us we would stop longer on the way home, so we passed directly into the hills.  Lush "farms" of coffee trees intermingled with pepper trees and exotic flowers and shrubs as the understory of stately forest.  I ate my first coffee cherries, sweet and red, and collected some pepper to dry at home.

By the time we were able to climb to the falls, it was well into the afternoon and scorchingly hot.  It was sweet relief to climb into the lush landscape!  We passed a variety of happy looking damp pilgrims making their way down.  The falls themselves were a very welcome view, and the men quickly stripped down to jump in.  This being India, ladies get in fully dressed, so I prepared for my blessing in tank top and pants.  The falls themselves were deliciously pounding and cool, but nothing like the ice-baths of Washington state!  The locals were very friendly with us, but also did not swarm us for photos or to gawk (too much) at the crazy foreigners as is often the case.

Aeryk chills out for Sivaratri


At the base of the hill we visited an ancient temple for puja.  I think we all felt very pure by this point, or at least significantly refreshed!
Returning as we came, we almost overstayed our welcome at Nagarhole.  Evening being a very active buffet hour for wildlife there was almost too much to take in.  While we did not get to see any of the preserve's famed tigers, leopards, or any other cats, we almost saw too much of the wild elephant.  I read after our safe return that it is common for elephants to blockade the road at night and even to tip cars they come across, so  visitors are advised to leave before six.

 

Don't mess with the Gwar!

  Back in Mysore, extremely tired but happy, we were greeted by the joyous lights and sounds of Sivaratri festivities that ran late into the night.  Another perfect, long day in India.

vivian