Joining the Human Garland

How many pilgrims does it take to encircle a mountain nine miles around, in a chaotic twelve to twenty body wide ring?  Once the decision was made to join the human garland there was no turning back, no choice but to continue onward all the way around.  We were there to celebrate Siva in his fire aspect, entering an extremely old tradition in the deep south of India to spend the full moon night walking barefoot all the way around the base of Mt. Arunachala.  Like any other event in India, there is a fabulous mix of the sacred with pure festive carnival fun.  Aside from merely walking, there were dozens of temples and holy sites along the path at which to pray, touch fire, offer, or whisper in the ears of the gods.  

An Artist's Impermanent Honoring of Hanuman

We started out boldly, yet lamely, Aeryk with a freshly broken toe, and both of us with feet burned by the blazing mountain stairs from earlier in the 105 degree day.  Night made a better climate for a hike, but I'll admit the pain started in the first kilometer and I was inwardly whiny on and off.  I prayed to Siva for the strength to endure the pain, since completion of the loop was past the time of choice.  We were swept by the joyous crowd, and kept the pace.  Many pilgrims fast for this, but clearly not all, as vendors are everywhere selling roasted corn, fresh juices, coconuts, and even tupperware(?!?) and other "impulse" buys.  

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A Friendly Face from the Road (daytime)

While some walkers rang little bells and chanted their way around, others in pure devoted silence, those chatting with their companions were also not out of place.  We experienced, alternately, kilometers of pure joy and amazement, kilometers of suffering, followed by bliss again.  I experienced real fear just once, as we reached the ground zero of Tiruvannamalai's famous temple complex, as hundreds massed around a huge fire at an entrance.  We were being simultaneously pushed by those wanting to get closer to the fire, those who had been pushed too close and were trying to get away unharmed, and those just trying to get around the circuit.  I had a few moments in which I understood how easy it would be to get swept underfoot and trampled by the crowd, as does happen a few times each year at Indian religious gatherings.  

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Touch the Fire - one of hundreds of little prayer flames around the Mountain

All along the journey there were beggars and holy men looking for handouts, and in keeping with tradition we were fairly free with the rupees.   I was unprepared nonetheless for the encampment of human suffering lined up just past the temple on the trail lying in the street mostly unable to jangle their bowls or do more than cry out - and some beyond even outcry.  People with fresh amputations, deformed limbs, diseases horrific to witness, some must have been put there with bowls for they surely couldn't get themselves anywhere.  I resolved then I'd better suck it up and quit my whining...I'm lucky to have two feet that get to feel this pain.  

Amazingly, when we awoke the next morning after our four hour barefoot hike we felt great.  Good enough to enjoy an outdoor yoga practice on "Siva's Lap" at the foot of the mountain.  Maybe it's full moon magic, but we found ourselves energetic and ready to walk some more, hike to caves, untroubled by the blazing summer heat. 

 Now we are back in Mysore, packing to come home.  Miraculously it has rained...the first real rain since we arrived, and the day feels cool, almost like home.  It makes me feel truly ready to be back in Oly.